Due to ever-increasing textile demands coupled with the prolific use of synthetic fabrics and harmful dyes, the fashion industry has become one of the biggest environmental polluters, destroying waterways, spewing toxic fumes, and generating tons of waste. The development of sustainable textiles and dyes has become a prominent research topic in several scientific fields, among which biotechnology stands out for its potential to mitigate the environmental impacts of the fashion industry.
Bio-cellulose, a natural fiber created using microorganisms without any chemical additives, could be the key to producing more sustainable textiles using fewer resources. da Silva et al. (2021) found that during biosynthesis, certain microorganisms form a film consisting of a “random nanofibrillar network of cellulose chains, interspersed between water regions that occupy 90–98% of the total volume of the material” (da Silva et al., 2021, p. 2970), which forms the basis of bio-cellulose fabrics. Several studies have examined the feasibility of using industrial waste as a source of nutrients to produce bio-cellulose. Using industrial waste could enhance the economic sustainability of bio-cellulose production by lowering the production cost. While synthetic fabrics have significant impacts on the environment due to the toxic waste and emissions associated with their production and their lack of degradability, textiles made of bio-cellulose are non-toxic and biodegradable.
Biotechnology scientists have also shown great interest in developing alternative dyes. For example, Fried et al. (2022) examined biogenic colorants as a sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes, which pollute the environment and endanger both worker safety and consumer health. Biogenic dyes are “colored small molecules naturally produced by microorganisms” (Fried et al., 2022, p. 18). Biotechnology has enabled many of these dyes to be produced under lab conditions. Unlike synthetic dyes, which are produced using petrochemical feedstocks, biogenic dyes are produced using renewable feedstocks (e.g., sugars, alcohols, and carboxylic acids).
One such biogenic dye is astaxanthin, a red pigment naturally produced by a few species of bacteria, fungi, thraustochytrids, and microalgae. When the microalgae are stressed by changes in conditions such as temperature, light, and nutrients, they create this pigment. Animals and crustaceans who feed on these algae (e.g., salmon, flamingos, crab, and shrimp) absorb the astaxanthin, and their shell, skin, or flesh will subsequently shift colors to pink or red. The commercial production of astaxanthin involves a two-stage, stress-induced process on Haematococcus pluvialis, which are freshwater unicellular green microalgae. Fried et al. (2022) compared biogenic dyes including astaxanthin to synthetic dyes and found that the former yields better predicted biodegradability and less toxicity.
Challenges affecting the application of bio-cellulose and biogenic dyes in the fashion industry can be either technical, such as the limited stability of biogenic dyes, or related to the economic viability of commercial-scale production. However, as technology advances and consumer awareness of sustainability issues increases, we can expect to see wider adoption of these sustainable alternatives in the near future.
References:
da Silva, C. J. G., de Medeiros, A. D. M., de Amorim, J. D. P., do Nascimento, H. A., Converti, A., Costa, A. F. S., & Sarubbo, L. A. (2021). Bacterial cellulose biotextiles for the future of sustainable fashion: a review. Environmental Chemistry Letters, 1–14. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10311-021-01214-x
Fried, R., Oprea, I., Fleck, K., & Rudroff, F. (2022). Biogenic colourants in the textile industry – a promising and sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes. Green Chemistry, 24(1), 13–35. https://doi.org/10.1039/D1GC02968A
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